Glycolic acid and retinol: can you use them together?

Table of Content:
Similarities & differences | What is glycolic acid | Concentrations of glycolic acid | What is retinol | Benefits & side effects of retinol and glycolic acid | FAQ

Although glycolic acid and retinol are both treatments used to combat acne and anti-aging and may seem similar, they have very different effects on the skin. Learn more about these two products so you and your online dermatologist can decide if these products are right for you.

However, there is a growing trend of consumers buying both products and using them at the same time, whether this is recommended or not. Because of that, it is important to know the precautions you should take before using them together to avoid undesired results.

If you are interested in learning more about hydroxy acids, you can also read our articles on salicylic and lactic acid, glycolic and lactic acid, benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid, and glycolic acid and salicylic acids.

Glycolic acid vs retinol: what are the similarities?

According to Dr. Iben Miller, board-certified dermatologist, retinol and glycolic acid are both used to combat acne and both have anti-aging effects. 

What is the difference between glycolic acid and retinol?

Glycolic acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) and  acts as a chemical exfoliant to the skin^{1 2}. Retinol, on the other hand, speeds up skin cell turnover, boosting the production of collagen helping you get newer, healthier skin faster^3 4.

“In more simple terms, glycolic acid works mainly in the upper layers of the skin while retinol also works in the deeper layers of the skin, so they may complement each other if used adequately,” says Dr. Miller.

What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is the most used of the Alpha Hydroxy Acids, which are a group of plant-derived acids used in skincare products⁵. 

Glycolic acid reduces superficial fine lines and wrinkles, improves the appearance of mild photodamaged skin, smooths skin texture, and reduces the hyperpigmentation that acne lesion may leave behind^{6 7 8}. 

Concentrations of glycolic acid

Glycolic acid is available in different concentrations and it is important that you adjust the skin routine according to the concentration of the product as glycolic acid may cause a skin burn if used improperly. 

Low concentrations (1-5%) can – if tolerated by your skin – can be incorporated in your daily skincare routine. Higher concentrations (above 10%) should be applied less frequently for example, 1-2 times a week depending on how well your skin tolerates it. 

Higher concentrations (above 15%) should be used with high precaution and have to be washed off after a few minutes. If you use high-concentration products, it is recommended you do so under professional dermatology care.  

What is retinol?

Retinol is one of the best over-the-counter (OTC) skin care ingredients available on the market for acne and antiaging. It is a vitamin A derivative that belongs to the category of retinoids and it is used to treat several skin health concerns, especially acne and anti-aging⁹. It is often used as a self-care product for acne. 

Side effects of glycolic acid and retinol

According to Dr. Iben Miller, glycolic acid and retinol tend to have similar side effects which includes skin dryness, irritation, peeling and burning sensation which is why you need to be careful when combining these two ingredients in your skin care routine. 

FAQ about glycolic acid and retinol

Glycolic acid and retinol: which one is best for acne and anti-aging?

According to Dr. Miller, glycolic acid and retinol both reduce fine lines and wrinkles and fight acne lesions. With regards to glycolic acid, the effect depends on the concentration and the exposure time. However, there aren’t any studies directly comparing the effect of these two products. 

Dr. Miller recommends treating comedonal and papulopustular acne patients with retinoids such as retinol and adding glycolic acid can be a good supplement. For a mild case of acne vulgaris glycolic acid may be enough. 

Can you use glycolic acid and retinol together?

Dr. Miller says that it is possible to use both products as part of your skin care routine for acne and anti-aging. 

She recommends using a glycolic acid cleanser (not a leave-in product) in the morning followed by a moisturizer and a sunscreen SPF 50. Apply retinol at night since it makes your skin photosensitive. 

If there is any sign of irritation, Dr. Miller suggests you stop using both products until the irritation is gone. If you start again, do so with a lower frequency and consider finding a glycolic acid product with a lower concentration.

What are the benefits of using glycolic acid and retinol together?

“Retinol promotes skin cell turnover and boosts collagen production, but it does not help to remove dead, dull skin. Therefore, when you use retinol, it may be a good idea to exfoliate regularly to maximize the results,” says Dr. Miller.

What precautions should I take when using glycolic acid together with retinol?

“When introducing retinol or glycolic acid to your skincare routine, it’s important to do it slowly to avoid side effects and to ensure that your skin tolerates these products. Start with a low concentration and increase if needed. It is a good idea to test the product first on a small part of your face and see how your skin reacts”, she added.

Dr. Miller recommends always applying glycolic acid in the morning (followed by a moisturizer and sunscreen or as a combination product) and retinol at night. During the first week apply both products twice per week and on different days. As your skin slowly gets used to both ingredients, apply retinol every other day, until you can apply it nightly.

“It’s not necessary to apply both products every day. You can apply retinol every night, once your skin is used to it and glycolic acid a few times per week. And remember to adjust your frequency of treatment according to the concentration of the glycolic acid in the product and your own skin tolerance in order to avoid a skin burn,” says Dr. Miller.

“Avoid using physical exfoliants (i.e. scrubbing masks) in combination with chemical exfoliants such as glycolic acid. In general, you should avoid physical exfoliants altogether if your skin is prone to acne as the mechanical stress may worsen the acne lesions”, Dr. Miller adds.  

If you have a facial dermatosis e.g. rosacea, psoriasis or eczema always consult your dermatologist before using these products.

 Conclusion

If used carefully, using glycolic acid and retinol together will be okay, in most cases. But if you have sensitive skin or have a known facial dermatosis, you may want to take additional precautions and consult your dermatologist beforehand—especially if you are just getting started. 

Article References:

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8 https://pubmed.Ncbi.Nlm.Nih.Gov/24399880/
9 https://www.Ncbi.Nlm.Nih.Gov/pmc/articles/pmc6791161/
10 https://www.Ncbi.Nlm.Nih.Gov/pmc/articles/pmc2699641/
11 https://pubmed.Ncbi.Nlm. Nih.Gov/24399880/
12 https://pubmed.Ncbi. Nlm. Nih.Gov/24399880/
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16 https://pubmed.Ncbi.Nlm.Nih. Gov/24399880/